Evolution of Breaking Directional Spectral
نویسنده
چکیده
Methods used in parabolic refraction-diiraction models for computing the evolution of monochromatic waves in the nearshore zone are used to construct a model for spectral wave conditions. The two dimensional spectrum is divided into discrete wave components and the individual wave components are computed simultaneously in the domain using parabolic models for each wave component. Statistical quantities are computed at each forward step in the parabolic scheme and used to construct a statistical wave breaking model. The breaking model is built into the parabolic model equation using an additional breaking term. Model results are compared to available one-or two-dimensional data.
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